Upon first laying eyes on the Manchu-style Qipao, it instantly became a crush of Anne from Poland. This is a glance that lasts an eternity. In just a few short hours, the distance between them shrank to nothing; Anne was obsessively captivated by its charm. In this episode of “Craftsmanship in Liaoning”, Scarlett invites Anne to explore the mysteries of the Liaoning intangible cultural heritage treasure—the Manchu-style Qipao, and to lift the veil on the enigmatic beauty of Chinese women.
Retracing back 388 years to 1636 when Hong Taiji, an emperor of the Qing Dynasty, established the capital in Shengjing (present-day Shenyang), standardizing the attire of the Banner people (“Banner”, “Qi” in Chinese, means military-administrative organization of the Manchus in the Qing Dynasty), hence the name “Qipao” for the Manchu Banner people’s robe was formed. Shenyang, Liaoning Province is known as the birthplace of Qipao. Since 2017, Shenyang has hosted eight Qipao cultural festivals, and in 2023, it was honored as the “China’s Qipao Fashion Release Base”. The Qipao is not only a classic representation of Eastern aesthetics, but also a symbol of the charm of Eastern women.
Yao Jianping, the third-generation inheritor of the Na’s Manchu-style Qipao making technique, handcrafts Manchu-style Qipao dresses that preserve the making techniques of 15 kinds of Qipao plackets. The unique charm lies in its “ever-upright” collar, whose standing shape outlines the elegance of a woman’s neck. Each Manchu-style Qipao is an ultimate consideration of the female figure, with precise measurements of 36 body parts, meticulously crafted through 26 intricate processes.
Reciting the measurement data—“garment length, collar circumference, collar height, shoulder width...”—Anne was particularly amazed. The various shapes of the knot buttons on the Qipao enchanted her. Yao Jianping explained, “In Chinese traditional culture, knot buttons symbolize blessings and good fortune.” Under Yao Jianping’s guidance, Scarlett and Anne embarked on their journey of making knot buttons. A small yet intricate knot button embodied great wisdom. A piece of string was weaved and intertwined between the fingers, twisting and turning, with meticulous precision, ultimately transforming into a beautiful knot button.
Instantly transformed into Eastern beauties of “national beauty and heavenly fragrance” by donning the Manchu-style Qipao, Scarlett and Anne couldn’t hide their excitement. Having finally worn her dream “robe”, Anne exclaimed, “Wearing the Manchu-style Qipao and experiencing the art of its crafting, I can truly feel the ingenious design and delicate craftsmanship in every bit of the fabric. Craftsmen like Ms. Yao use their hands and talent to revitalize traditional craftsmanship, as if weaving a beautiful tale that belongs exclusively to the East, and uniquely to China’s Liaoning.”